Apply some methylated spirits to a cloth, and rub over your track surface for a quick good clean! _________________ * Percy: Isn't a Jubilee a sort of party? Thomas and I took some Scouts to one once.
* Thomas: That was a jamboree.
* Percy: Was it? Sorry.
Thats a good tip putting a straw on the line when spraying ballast, would save a lot of hard rubbing _________________ mine is a pint of J Smiths Smooth please
Dont shake accrylic paints before you use them creates airbubbles . stir with cocktail stick.
Add around 5 metal BB balls to humbrol tinlets to agitate the paint when shaking them before use similar to the spray can principle.
If cutting thin plastic in width mark with pencil and cover the mark with selotape use a steel rule to cut against remove the tape and the thin strip wont curl up.
Fine wet and dry can make a nice asphalt roof texture overspray with matt varnish for final finish.
When cleaning paintbrushes have a jar with cheap brush cleaner ..... clean in that then in normal humbrol thinners if enamel ........ enamel thinners lasts longer and cleaner.
Strip wood planking for boats in your model shop is good for roofs and structures on the layout.
Use copydex to stick down track doesnt need pins and the layer of glue being latex is a good soundproofer, if you need to reposition track comes off clean and easily.
Flux & Tin all wires when soldering them to motors track etc.
Use isopropyl alchohol for thinning tamiya paint same stuff they sell in little bottles but lot cheaper in large bottles from chemist.
Decal solvents give a lot better painted on look to your models decals.
If you have to oil locos a pin drop will last for a long time.
If usng a dry graphite lubricant make sure it does not get on the track graphite is a superb conductor.
With DCC use Kapton tape for insulating.
Use a long BBQ skewer for creating holes in scenery especially if you use foam for scenery in depth.
Heatshrink tube can save a lot of grief with electrics its cheap and you can never use enough of it.
Assemble all but small detail parts when constructing plastic buildings before paint.
A fibreglass pencil has many uses around the workbench.
Cheap car spray primer is a good undercoat before main painting on plastics .... NOT cellulose though it melts the plastic.
Crushed real coal looks well and cant be substituted.
Sorry Poliss these are bit longer than one liners but kept descriptions to a minimum _________________
When using superglue play a small PC fan over your work while the glue dries it prevents the white kicker fumes/marks building up on your work. _________________
If you are using sharp sand on the layout don't forget to run a magnet over it before use... sharp sand can contain magnetic metals that love to jump around loco magnets and are hell on mechanisms. _________________
Old radio control servos can be adapted for low voltage motor drives for the layout .......... waterwheels windmills etc.
Remove any pips on the gears to allow them to move freely _________________
That old fibre optic lamp in the cuboard can provide lght in small areas with the fibres bunched together to an LED light source under the boards. _________________
for good one liner tips ask Nick... _________________ * Percy: Isn't a Jubilee a sort of party? Thomas and I took some Scouts to one once.
* Thomas: That was a jamboree.
* Percy: Was it? Sorry.
Urm, Make sure track is alligned side by side properly with a roll of sellotape? well thats me out. _________________ Please visit
www.freewebs.com/stockdaleonsea
Updated Regularly so Please keep checking.
Thanks
Instead of using insulating joiners piece of plasticard fills the gap created insulating in HO i use 30 thou plasticard to space the track while laying.
Superglue the plastic in shape to the profile of the rail but dont sand it (creates scratches on the rail collecting dirt). _________________
never use wet and dry or sand paper on track, EVER!!
this causes dirt to collect in the rails as nick said, and cause unreliable current flow _________________ * Percy: Isn't a Jubilee a sort of party? Thomas and I took some Scouts to one once.
* Thomas: That was a jamboree.
* Percy: Was it? Sorry.
If you have flash/mould lines on plastic parts a brush with plasticweld will smooth it out saves a lot of sanding.
Day after give it a sand off smooth _________________
Use normal spray polish with bees wax in for cleaning your locos rolling stock . Works a treet This tip came from Triangman before he died _________________ Experience is something you don' t get until just after you need it .
Use fish tank plant weights for lighter stock for better traction ....... thin and small they are ideal for G/F 100 ton tankers / coaches. _________________
I use lead shot , glued with epoxy resin . £35 for 7 kg of shot from the local shooting supply shop _________________ Experience is something you don' t get until just after you need it .
If using Nitro-Mors or any other paint stripper on a model, apart from the usual safety gear, have a bucket of cold water in the workshop. Then if your gloves get punctured, you can immerse your hands in water and remove the gloves very quickly (before your skin peels off!) . _________________ OK, so now what do I do?
Use a sliding bevel for marking out unusual angles .. they can be bought in small sizes made for modelmakers mine is like the one here last for years and is 4 1/2 ins long when folded not expensive was about £4.00.
Use lighter fluid for sticky marks on some kitchen towel, if it doesnt work first time reapply and let it work on the mark with some more on the towel remove it clean off
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This tip came from Triangman before he died 