dave`s dangerous
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Street LightsAny one got a suggestion for making street lights, I have some plastic tube the size of staws which could make the upright and then thread a grain of rice bulb through, but its finding something for the top, ANY SUGGESTIONS please.
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upnick
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Hi Dave,
What style /era of light do you want to create ? SMD'S instead of the rice bulbs will run cooler & of course are smaller.
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dave`s dangerous
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| upnick wrote: | Hi Dave,
What style /era of light do you want to create ? SMD'S instead of the rice bulbs will run cooler & of course are smaller.  |
Morning Nick , Just a straight forward steet light nothing fancy , what are SMD`s
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dave`s dangerous
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Theses are the street lights I have been using they are German but now at £33 for 5 it`s a bit expensive and the other station lights are about £8 each
This is the plastic tube I thought for the post but any suggestions for a top, and I know its time I bought a new workboard.
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upnick
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Hi Dave,
The German ones are fine but as you say expensive
SMD's are LED'S but surface mounted versions of them & a lot smaller in my fireplace layout you can see them on yard lights i placed at the back there are two fitted to each light in the video & dont forget they are N scale
They did come eady assembled i dont fancy soldering such small items in a samll area though for your lights they can be done or come prewired try & dig out some info on the prewired for you.
This is what SMD's look like & thier dimensions
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-ULTRA-BR...d8190dfb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
To make the tops some thin Brass shaped & filed would work try with some plasticard first as a pattern, just make sure the Brass top cant come into contact with the electrics.
Heres the Video of the yard lights to the right side of the layout.
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dave`s dangerous
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They look nice and bright, do you have to wire in sequence or have they got resistors fitted? I could use them instead of grain of rice , as they do get very hot. It is trying to get something for the top cover, I did try the plastic top off a pen but with the heat of the bulb could be dangerouse
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upnick
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| dave`s dangerous wrote: | They look nice and bright, do you have to wire in sequence or have they got resistors fitted? I could use them instead of grain of rice , as they do get very hot. It is trying to get something for the top cover, I did try the plastic top off a pen but with the heat of the bulb could be dangerouse  |
Hi Dave,
The yard lights are from CR signals heres thier download page inc OO
http://www.crsignals.com/downloads.aspx
Almost sure Bromsgrove models stock Prewired SMD's a quick call should confirm it .
http://www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/brmodsindex.html
The lights on the vid where wired in series with resistors grain of rice bulbs are ok but will give off too much heat.
Another way to make the tops is to shape a piece of balsa /dowel to the correct profile then a piece of square balsa with a hole cut out in the centre.
Using drawing pns attach some plasticard to the balsa covering the hole heat gently under the grill till the plastic just moves remove quickly & use your shaped dowel to push the soft plastic into the form you need ...... trim and use its a basic form of vac moulding very effective & lots of copies can be made with the jig.
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dave`s dangerous
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Thanks Nick both those shops seem to have all that I would like in lighting, the Cr signals seem the best but again they are not cheap, but they have ones for self assembley at £4 or just over I maight have a go at them later, but your idea of making my own is interesting, I shall have a go when I have compleated (never have) my scenary and track.
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poliss
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Is it possible to turn non working lamps into working lamps such as the ones from model scene?
http://www.gaugemaster.com/prod.a...;cid=219&mid=648&style=#1
Don't know if those are hollow, but maybe others are?
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dave`s dangerous
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Those gas lamps look good and they are cheap at £3 for 6 wonder if I can get a led bulb inside, think I will get a pack and try ..Thanks Doug, they will always come in handy if not.
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poliss
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I don't know how practical it would be to convert them if the post is solid and you had to replace it with brass tube. You might just be left with the head that's useful. It's just an idea to look for alternatives to expensive operational lamps.
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dave`s dangerous
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| poliss wrote: | | I don't know how practical it would be to convert them if the post is solid and you had to replace it with brass tube. You might just be left with the head that's useful. It's just an idea to look for alternatives to expensive operational lamps. |
yes it probably would covert to just use the tops I am going to buy some along with some other things on there so will let you know when I get them
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upnick
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The model scene ones look a good donor for operating lights but the clear part is probably a white solid plastic needing something to replace the lamp parts when using an SMD/LED.
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dave`s dangerous
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| upnick wrote: | | The model scene ones look a good donor for operating lights but the clear part is probably a white solid plastic needing something to replace the lamp parts when using an SMD/LED. |
I have ordered some now so we will see if and when they arrive, they all seem slow these days , but the post arn`t on strike as yet are they?
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dave`s dangerous
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Still waiting for the street lights form gaugemaster, but has anyone come accross some zebra crossing lights (flashing) in00 gauge, C R signals seem to be more i N gauge, tried a few sights but seen nothing yet.
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upnick
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| dave`s dangerous wrote: | Still waiting for the street lights form gaugemaster, but has anyone come accross some zebra crossing lights (flashing) in00 gauge, C R signals seem to be more i N gauge, tried a few sights but seen nothing yet.  |
Havnt seen any Dave but they should be even easier to make with flashing LED's in a round sphere theres lots more space for the LED.
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dave`s dangerous
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These are the Hornby beacon crossing lights but I don`t think big enough to put a flashing LED inside , shall have to look for a bigger orange sphere , Thanks Nick Keep on the lookout
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