poliss
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Thread For One Liner TipsNo chatting on this thread please or the tips will get lost.
For Oil Drums in OO/HO scale use the end of a pencil, the part that hold the rubber.
When spraying glue on ballast, cut a straw down the middle and put it over the rail tops.
Use old electric razor foils for mesh.
For pasting the backscene use flour and water glue.
Activated charcoal from your pet shop might be useful as coal loads.
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ba4472
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Apply some methylated spirits to a cloth, and rub over your track surface for a quick good clean!
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upnick
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A wipe with Isopropyl alchohol works well on track cleaning.
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dave`s dangerous
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Thats a good tip putting a straw on the line when spraying ballast, would save a lot of hard rubbing
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upnick
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Dont shake accrylic paints before you use them creates airbubbles . stir with cocktail stick.
Add around 5 metal BB balls to humbrol tinlets to agitate the paint when shaking them before use similar to the spray can principle.
If cutting thin plastic in width mark with pencil and cover the mark with selotape use a steel rule to cut against remove the tape and the thin strip wont curl up.
Fine wet and dry can make a nice asphalt roof texture overspray with matt varnish for final finish.
When cleaning paintbrushes have a jar with cheap brush cleaner ..... clean in that then in normal humbrol thinners if enamel ........ enamel thinners lasts longer and cleaner.
Strip wood planking for boats in your model shop is good for roofs and structures on the layout.
Use copydex to stick down track doesnt need pins and the layer of glue being latex is a good soundproofer, if you need to reposition track comes off clean and easily.
Flux & Tin all wires when soldering them to motors track etc.
Use isopropyl alchohol for thinning tamiya paint same stuff they sell in little bottles but lot cheaper in large bottles from chemist.
Decal solvents give a lot better painted on look to your models decals.
If you have to oil locos a pin drop will last for a long time.
If usng a dry graphite lubricant make sure it does not get on the track graphite is a superb conductor.
With DCC use Kapton tape for insulating.
Use a long BBQ skewer for creating holes in scenery especially if you use foam for scenery in depth.
Heatshrink tube can save a lot of grief with electrics its cheap and you can never use enough of it.
Assemble all but small detail parts when constructing plastic buildings before paint.
A fibreglass pencil has many uses around the workbench.
Cheap car spray primer is a good undercoat before main painting on plastics .... NOT cellulose though it melts the plastic.
Crushed real coal looks well and cant be substituted.
Sorry Poliss these are bit longer than one liners but kept descriptions to a minimum
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upnick
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When using superglue play a small PC fan over your work while the glue dries it prevents the white kicker fumes/marks building up on your work.
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dave`s dangerous
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| upnick wrote: | | When using superglue play a small PC fan over your work while the glue dries it prevents the white kicker fumes/marks building up on your work. |
thats a good tip Nick as I always seem to have marks left on my work.
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upnick
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If you are using sharp sand on the layout don't forget to run a magnet over it before use... sharp sand can contain magnetic metals that love to jump around loco magnets and are hell on mechanisms.
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upnick
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Old radio control servos can be adapted for low voltage motor drives for the layout .......... waterwheels windmills etc.
Remove any pips on the gears to allow them to move freely
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upnick
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That old fibre optic lamp in the cuboard can provide lght in small areas with the fibres bunched together to an LED light source under the boards.
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ba4472
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for good one liner tips ask Nick...
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upnick
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Got loads more when i can remember them Bruce
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Joe
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Urm, Make sure track is alligned side by side properly with a roll of sellotape? well thats me out.
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Noakesy123
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Never build a big layout, it soaks money quicker than you can earn it.
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upnick
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Instead of using insulating joiners piece of plasticard fills the gap created insulating in HO i use 30 thou plasticard to space the track while laying.
Superglue the plastic in shape to the profile of the rail but dont sand it (creates scratches on the rail collecting dirt).
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ba4472
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never use wet and dry or sand paper on track, EVER!!
this causes dirt to collect in the rails as nick said, and cause unreliable current flow
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Teleman
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Don't eat yellow snow ( My Dad told me that )
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upnick
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good tip Pete ..........
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upnick
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Tunnel access in end of board ...... last post on this page ......
http://thecentralstation.myfreeforum.org/ftopic1084-60.php
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upnick
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If you have flash/mould lines on plastic parts a brush with plasticweld will smooth it out saves a lot of sanding.
Day after give it a sand off smooth
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Teleman
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Use normal spray polish with bees wax in for cleaning your locos rolling stock . Works a treet This tip came from Triangman before he died
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upnick
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Use fish tank plant weights for lighter stock for better traction ....... thin and small they are ideal for G/F 100 ton tankers / coaches.
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Teleman
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I use lead shot , glued with epoxy resin . £35 for 7 kg of shot from the local shooting supply shop
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upnick
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| Teleman wrote: | | I use lead shot , glued with epoxy resin . £35 for 7 kg of shot from the local shooting supply shop |
Lot of weight there Pete to use up shot conforms well though.
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upnick
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With clear plastic parts use toothpaste on a cotton bud to polish it up.
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Even older tom
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If using Nitro-Mors or any other paint stripper on a model, apart from the usual safety gear, have a bucket of cold water in the workshop. Then if your gloves get punctured, you can immerse your hands in water and remove the gloves very quickly (before your skin peels off!) .
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upnick
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Use a sliding bevel for marking out unusual angles .. they can be bought in small sizes made for modelmakers mine is like the one here last for years and is 4 1/2 ins long when folded not expensive was about £4.00.
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/wo...ding-bevel-gauge-kit-5002b100.jpg
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poliss
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When using PVA to paste the backscene, paste the board and not the paper! (Just found that out).
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dave`s dangerous
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| poliss wrote: | | When using PVA to paste the backscene, paste the board and not the paper! (Just found that out). |
how many sheets have we wasted???
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upnick
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Use lighter fluid for sticky marks on some kitchen towel, if it doesnt work first time reapply and let it work on the mark with some more on the towel remove it clean off
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upnick
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For lifting track already glued down use a hacksaw blade slipped under the sleeepers carefully ..... using the blunt side so not to dig in.
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upnick
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After using your soldering iron wipe it clean so its shiny and bright .........then apply some solder to the tip and turn it off let it cool and the solder will keep the iron tip clean for next time
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upnick
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Washes of thinned paintb can bring out lots of detail that is not apperent and add another dimension to a subject.
The same with Dry brushing
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dave`s dangerous
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What do they mean by dry brushing, is it as simple as running a dry brush over the painted area?
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Noakesy123
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Dry brushing is where you put paint on the brush, but then wipe most of it off, so when you run it over a surface only the raised areas get lightly covered, perfect for weathering.
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dave`s dangerous
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Thanks for that, so then what is air brushing as you can tell I am a novice at all this, I have seen the small sprayers at shows, is that what it is?
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upnick
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Hi Dave,
Drybrushing doesnt involve an airbrush i'll try and find some information and add it on another thread.
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dave`s dangerous
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Cheers
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upnick
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Posted up in how do i do that section try and find something on washes later ..... have to go to town >>>>>>>>
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upnick
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Use tin foil to line roofs in buildings when fitting lights in them to reflect the light.
The other side of the coin is to use plastic milk container plastic (the opaque type) to tone down a light over the led.
Dont use bulbs in when lighting LED's run cool and last a lot longer .. just dont forget to add a resistor to them when wiring up.
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ba4472
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when mking your own station lights and want a traditional 'yellow glow' use grain of wheat lamps with a stem of your choice...
also wire these lights in series to save on resistors and to help dim down the glow
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Teleman
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One i have not tryed but sounds good
Use Tipex as a light filler
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upnick
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Bare metal foil is great for parts that need plating ( i know there arent a lot in railways but it comes in different finishes)
http://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html
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dave`s dangerous
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Good tip of Nick`s was using methalated spirit mixed for glueing ballast down, sets a lot better 30% water 30% m/spirit/30%pva still 10% left for washing up liquid!
Put some down last night and its set solid this morning
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upnick
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| dave`s dangerous wrote: | Good tip of Nick`s was using methalated spirit mixed for glueing ballast down, sets a lot better 30% water 30% m/spirit/30%water still 10% left for washing up liquid!
Put some down last night and its set solid this morning |
Hi Dave glad it worked well
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upnick
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Hi All,
For perfect clear windows in models try Micro Krystal Kleer ro replace kit ones .. especially coaches ......
http://tinyurl.com/388sjk
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poliss
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Thread coupling springs onto a jewellers screwdriver. This helps to stop the little blighters vanishing into the ether.
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upnick
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| poliss wrote: | | Thread coupling springs onto a jewellers screwdriver. This helps to stop the little blighters vanishing into the ether. |
Sounds like a man who has lost a few springs in the carpet pile
Seriously good tip Poliss
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ba4472
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remember when the springs fly into the abyss, to always have a handy stock of expletive words......
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dave`s dangerous
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When useing the dynamis wirless controler don`t drop it on the floor!!!!!
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Teleman
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| ba4472 wrote: | | remember when the springs fly into the abyss, to always have a handy stock of expletive words...... |
But you have a few spare ones now
BTW i use a cocktail stick , many things you can use them for , and there cheep to
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upnick
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Warming double sided tape with a hairdrier before laying it agitates the adhesive in it making it more sticky
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