Weathering

Joe · Weathering

What (if any) Weathering products do you use for Locomotives, wagons Buildings, and Track in general? Do you use the traditional ground up Chalk based pastels or profesional stuff Like weathering products made especially for the Job? If use either please could you give some quick ups and downs of the products? Thanks, Joe.

Teleman

I have always used the air brush and a very dilute dirty colour mix in very thin coats .

Noakesy123

i only do rust on the rails so far, I just use the colour Airfix provide in beginers kits as camoflauge brown for Model planes.

I brush it on, it works quite well but is VERY time consuming and tedious.

Even older tom

Thinned down Revell 'Anthracite' brushed on works for me. It runs nicely into creases and dries with a matt finish and if you want some dirtier bits, dip the brush into neat paint and work it in.
I'll post a pic of my Airfix re-built Scot to illustrate the effect if you want. (Unfortunately, you'll have to dig out the original photo from Jake's forum to do a 'before' and 'after' comparison.)

Even older tom

Some pics of Royal Scot weathered: (OK, I know I didn't have the middle driving wheel on the tracks properly - I didn't have my glasses on!)

poliss

Are those custom nameplates or did they come with the model?

Even older tom

They came with the model Pol. (it's the Airfix one)

Joe

Very Nice method Tom. I Love the Lining as it sometimes disapears from view as there is weathering over it. Also Noakesy I started to paint my rails aswell but it looks terrible have you got any tips?

Camborner

Maybe you could use the technique I used on my rusting loco parts...
Dip brush in paint, paint wood to remove worst of paint, brush onto metal?

Joe

Thanks For that Ill give it a try, Ive got loads of wood to paint.

poliss

How to paint rusty rails. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEJUDo7Uw94

Joe

Thanks Pol that one is on my list but Ill probably never get it because it is quite expensive maybe just use Camborners method, sure it takes longer and wont look as clean and crisp as with the proffessional tools but hey its worth a try.

Joe

upnick

Mig Weathering powders work well on scale stuff i've used them for ages, made for the military modellers in the main no reason why they cant be used

http://www.migproductions.com/ficheros_tienda/english/index.html

Joe

Is it the Pigmen tsets I should be looking at as they look quiet good but Im a bit confused as to what I am looking at, Thanks
Joe

upnick

Joe

Thank you

upnick

Your welcome Joe

if you try them lets us know how you go on.

Joe

Hi just an update, as Teleman noticed in the last video I made I had painted some of the rails, it looks O.k in my opinion especially in the pictures on the Vid I thought! Anyway upnick: I haven't got any of those paints yet BUT I am looking to get them soon as i want to weather a Loco, thanks. And Camborner: thanks for the method I have used it and well I must say it works quite well for such a basic method, best to use a small brush though

bando1_de

Hi Joe,

dunno if this may be of any help but I made up a step-by-step workshop on my website. Point your mouse to "Workshops" and select "Weathering".

My site still needs a lot of translation work. So if you go strolling around it, don't be surprised, if German language pops up

. This is especially true for the foto-section where you also find a weathering-section. To view a picture full size, just click it...

Erhard

Joe

Thanks Erhard, It does help it shows how to weather a truck and I am assuming the same applies to a Loco. Thanks!

bando1_de

Err, not quite...

Depends whether you want to weather a steam engine or a diesel/electric.

For diesels or electrics you can use the same method as for wagons.

For steam engines, I use a slightly different method to also reach those regions that are normally covered by the rods and linkages.

I used a straight piece of sectional track, four selfmade brass "springs", and a wooden block that fits underneath the loco.
The block is just high enough to lift the loco off the track and is firmly glued to the sleepers with CA (superglue).
From very thin brass, I made 4 thin strips and slightly bent them to a "Z" shape. Then, they were soldered to the track, as were track feeders. Check the tension of the springs: they should just provide connection to the engine wheels but not lift it up.

Now the loco is placed on top of the block, a transformer connected to the track and turned up so that the wheels start to turn slowly.

Now I can weather the wheels without having any "clean" spots on them, same goes for the rods. From my experience, the best tool to do this is using an airbrush. Use a low pressure, such as 0.2 to 0.5 bar to apply only thin layers of paint. Let every coat dry and judge it. if it seems to be not enough, apply another coat.

Fine tuning can be done using a small paint brush.

Erhard

Joe

I don't have an airbrush, how much do they cost?

poliss

You can buy them for £17.99. http://www.abcmodelsport.co.uk/sh...-Airbrush-Set-SAction-ExtMix.html But I'd save up and get a better one. http://www.abcmodelsport.co.uk/shop/320/7964/
Erk, they're not there anymore.

bando1_de

Good advice, pol.
I'd like to add that a compressor also makes sense. Using an air bottle doesn't give consistent results as the air in the bottle tends to freeze when used for a longer period of time.

Joe, if you only use the airbrush from time to time, a simple compressor will do. If, however, you want to do more than just weathering a loco one month or another, I recommend to save up here as well and buy a compressor that is oil-cooled and has a water precipator to keep the air dry.

I wouldn't know where to buy them in GB but maybe pol can jump in give a little more help here...

Erhard

poliss

Pete's the airbrush expert, I've never used one myself so I wouldn't know which one to recommend. If someone does recommend one however, I should be able to find a link of where to buy it.

Teleman

Opps ment to get back to here

A good all round air brush is the Badger one , If you are going to be using lots small amounts of diffrent colours the get one with a cup as well as the jars ,
Air cans do cost but i would try one first as most air brush kits come with one before you think about a compresser as they do cost a lot but are better as you have more control over the air pressure

Another thing about Badger is that if your local shop sells Revell kits they can get the Badger air brush and jars etc as they come from the same firm

Joe

Cool, thanks for that Peter. At the moment an airbrsuh is way down the list. Ive got a alot to do to both layouts (well one thats built anyway) before i start thinking about stock and it's appearence but You input has been taken inot account thanks!

bando1_de

A bit unusual - maybe - but I just found out how to put my better half's make-up to a sensible use

:

The pigments are fine enough to be used for weathering. See the PennCentral boxcar below:

Click here for full size

Use the supplied applicator to apply the pigments to the car. It holds very well to the plastic and can easily be fixed using Dullcote spray or clear flat spray-paint. The boxcar shown is an old Atlas N-scale car.

The make-up sets are easily avaible in drug stores, don't cost a fortune, and come in various colors.

The time invested for the above model is something around 3 minutes...

Erhard