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Teleman · Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:43 pm Post subject: soldering a 'D' plug

Link

Well you did ask for it

hope you enjoy it
White metal next

next time i build a kit

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poliss · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 12:33 am Post subject:

Love them. Keep this up and we'll have a dvd boxed set.

I'm surprised you don't use one of these though. I can't solder without them. Too many thumbs.

http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/...ng-hands/showitem-6944-31324.aspx
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Teleman · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 12:42 am Post subject:

Nope i tryed them and i found they they did not help

Like i said at the end White metal next .. now that will be fun !! because the temp of your soldering iron comes in and liquid flux ARRR , jus don't breath the fumessss or you will spell like meese
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poliss · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 12:56 am Post subject:

I've heard that some people use crynoa criona cryana, superglue gel on whitemetal kits.
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Teleman · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 1:24 am Post subject:

No solder is the best way .... is just finding it that the trouble...
* sits back and waits for Pol to find 60 + sites selling the wright solder *
like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAP...sPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=014
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poliss · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 1:30 am Post subject:

I would, but I'm off to bed.

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poliss · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 12:11 pm Post subject:

How about these? http://www.langleymodels.co.uk/ac...nt_Solder__Glue___Fillers_67.html
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Teleman · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 12:34 pm Post subject:

Thats the stuff

I will order some later as i only have a little left
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poliss · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 4:28 pm Post subject:

When I try to tin the end of a wire it always ends up with a blob at the end. What am I doing wrong?
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Teleman · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 8:18 pm Post subject:

It could be a few things .. the main reason is you need more heat in the wire before you put the solder on .
Or the wire is not clean
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poliss · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 8:33 pm Post subject:

Feels like my irons on the wire for hours. Wire's usually freshly stripped like yours.
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Teleman · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 8:39 pm Post subject:

If the wires just been stripped it does sound like the wire needs to be hotter
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poliss · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 8:41 pm Post subject:

But I keep the iron on longer than anyone I've seen and the insulation gets scorched. I'd show you if my cam was good enough.

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Teleman · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 8:58 pm Post subject:

What type of solder are you using ? It might be you have lead free solder which needs a hotter soldering iron
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poliss · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:10 pm Post subject:

You should know, you sent it to me. <VBS>
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Teleman · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:20 pm Post subject:

That should melt ok

you must need more pratice then
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poliss · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:23 pm Post subject:

You know the old adage, measure twice, cut once. Well I can measure six times, cut once and the *%£)"% still doesn't fit!!
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Chris · Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 3:52 pm Post subject:

I measured the distance between walls in my new 'railway' room - 3.975m. Checked and double checked, so +/- 5mm. That 75mm meant buying 4.2m lengths of wood. And, guess what. In the meantime, the house had shrunk to 3.895! Could have gone for 3.9m lengths of wood.

Seriously, though, I have found that some steel tapes are more accurate than others (at the same temperature). That wasn't the reason for the above problem. The walls were a) not quite parallel, b) not vertical and c) far from flat. (Also, the floor sloped!) The penalty of living in a 100 year old croft house.
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Teleman · Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 2:59 pm Post subject:

Tell me about it ! I have the same problem as my house was built in 1860 , I have found a 1 inch diffrence on the same wall but at diffrent heights
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poliss · Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:25 pm Post subject:

I don't think brand new houses have right angles or level floors either.
Stanley tape measures used to be good years ago, not sure about now though. I don't know how accurate these new fangled laser measures are bur they might be worth a try.
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poliss · Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 12:44 pm Post subject:

What's the max power that can go through the D connectors Pete and do you mix voltages, i.e. ac/dc?
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Teleman · Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 7:48 pm Post subject:

It varies from 1 amp to 3 amps and 300~750 volts diffrent makes have diffrent ratings

Edit for
Mix ac/dc ? sort of as the point motors are driven by a CDU , but i try not to , but if you want to i can't see why not
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upnick · Engine Driver Joined: 02 Oct 2008 Posts: 1476

With your wire Pol do you dip it in flux before applying the iron tip you just touched on the solder, works here everytime the flux helping it to flow into the strands of wire.

Just cut out this afternoon my case for a D ocnnector for 12v/16V

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poliss · Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 12:20 am Post subject:

Not me Nick, Pete's the electrical expert wiv the soldering and videos etc. I'm just the oily rag.

Why do you think he's called Teleman?
*<|:{)}
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Teleman · Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 10:43 am Post subject:

Thanks Pol , As for flux , if what you are soldering is clean it should not need extra flux . If you do use more flux make sure you clean it all after as plummers flux is nasty stuff and not ment for soldering wires or use the proper electronic flux that can be washed off with de-ionised water
http://cpc.farnell.com/SA00859/el...roduct.us0?sku=chemtronics-cw8100
http://cpc.farnell.com/SA00860/el...roduct.us0?sku=chemtronics-cw8200
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Experience is something you don' t get until just after you need it .

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http://www.youtube.com/user/the009man
http://beer-n-curry.mybrute.com

upnick · Engine Driver Joined: 02 Oct 2008 Posts: 1476

Thanks for the tips Teleman

Think for you Pol 'plug and play' is a good idea as opposed to soldering

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